The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels will showcase more than 300 timepieces, fashion accessories, design drawings, images from the firmâ€™s archives and, of course, an abundance of jewelry in six themes that reflect its legacy: Innovation, Transformation, Nature, Exoticism, Fashion, and Personalities.
The Innovations category highlights the brandâ€™s Mystery Setting, a 1933 patented technique in which stones are cut to fit a metal grid so there is no visible metal setting. Among the standout Mystery Setting pieces is a ruby Peony brooch, circa 1937. In the Fashion theme are five minaudiÃ¨res, including elaborate jeweled models and the brandâ€™s first 1930s piece inspired by Florence Jay Gould, wife of the American philanthropist Frank Jay Gould. The exhibitâ€™s Transformation portion features a 95-carat yellow diamond bird brooch, whose wings become a set of earrings. Exoticism and Nature show the recurring influence of travel and natural inspirations on classic Van Cleef & Arpels motifs like the butterfly, and Personalities will demonstrate the influence the house has had in American society through famous patrons like Elizabeth Taylor.